Hangar 9 P-40E Refurb

Re: Hangar 9 P-40E Refurb

Postby Dale » Sun May 25, 2014 6:49 pm

Wooo shiny new forum!

Cheers, she's indeed coming along. Your pic there is one of the two colour schemes i have in mind, haven't yet decided which one.

Just realised i've got about 10 weeks to get it finished, it's supposed to be flying at Forsyth.

No real update this week, haven't done much, and no pics. Have started on the cowl flaps, cut out the cowl opening, and more sanding and fairing on the front end, which looks quite good now.

Re: Hangar 9 P-40E Refurb

Postby Dale » Sun Jun 08, 2014 10:04 pm

What have i been up to? Not enough considering the ever shortening timeframe!
I spent a lot of time looking at the front end and thinking things over. I have a knack of over thinking and analyzing what should be a simple thing.
I have (at this time, tune in next week to see if I'm still heading down the same path) to completely rework the front end.
Because of the exhaust setup, the exhaust must be fitted to the engine before the engine can go into the mount, which means large cutouts between the exhaust and the lower (fibreglass) cowl, which them must then have some form of removeable filler. Isn't a lot of room for fasteners etc in there.
So my current plan is i'm going to make all, or a good part of, the upper cowl as a removeable fibreglass item, just like the underside.
I'm going to use the already built and top side as the plug, will then protect it with brown packing tape then make a mold etc. So am filling in the exhaust cutouts etc i've already made and filling and fairing it.
The other bit that has been taking lots of thoughts and tinkerings has been the cowl flaps:
And then compare with this:

Re: Hangar 9 P-40E Refurb

Postby Dale » Sun Jun 08, 2014 10:12 pm

Ya'll see what i did there?
This is how that works:
This is an idea i grabbed off a couple of youtube vids.
Pretty simply, push the wire from both ends (so it "grows longer") and it pushes the flaps open, pull to close. So the free ends of the cable will be connected to a servo each, which move together, pushing or pulling the wire in unison. Pretty simple. The hard bit is where it is located, there isn't room and access to have the servos in the tank bay below, so the wire has to be routed aft to the servo/radio tray above the fuse. To be accurate, there should be an inner layer of flaps filling the gaps between the existing flaps. This ply mount will be fastened directly to the fuse, and this whole arrangement is completely seperate from the removeable lower cowl. (incidentally, like the real thing!)
Operating, this is purely for wow factor, not engine cooling. I want to have sufficient cooling even when closed, with gaps (hence no inner flaps) and holes around the place.
I'm planning to put this on the gear channel, so when gear is down, the flaps open.
Where i am running into issues is if i do everything i want, this plane will be about 9 channels, but has to fly on a 7 channel Tx, so I gotta do some consolidating. Let it be said that if channels (or weight) become an issue, the cowl flaps will be the first thing to disappear.
I had hoped to get the messy connections (fuel fillers etc) inside the cowl flap area, here, but have given that idea away. Haven't got a replacement idea yet though!

Re: Hangar 9 P-40E Refurb

Postby Dale » Sun Jun 08, 2014 10:17 pm


Re: Hangar 9 P-40E Refurb

Postby tigger » Mon Jun 09, 2014 9:55 am

Wow Dale, way too clever but oh so nice. I would suggest at this stage to pull as many sickies as possible and just ring the pizza guy every 4 hours. Cheers to admin as well for sorting posting issues.
Cheers Tigger
Posts: 147
Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2013 8:07 am

Re: Hangar 9 P-40E Refurb

Postby Dale » Mon Jun 09, 2014 7:30 pm


Forgot to add this one, have been also opening cleaning up the very distinctive cowl inlets.

Re: Hangar 9 P-40E Refurb

Postby Dale » Sun Jun 15, 2014 5:35 pm

No pic this week, I don't have much new to take pictures of.
I filled in the cutouts I'd made for the exhaust, then sealed and fibreglassed the front end of the fuse, back to and including the wing root fairings with 2oz (48gm) glass. I was itching to get onto glassing, so i felt like i was making some progress somewhere.
(The clock is ticking to get it flying, and to add more tension, moving house again in the next month). I have just come in from adding sanding the first coat of glazing putty over the glass to really fill the weave and fit and fill any depressions. Same stuff i used on the wing. (http://3mcollision.com/products/fillers ... 05098.html). Once this is done, it's cover it with tape, and the glass a mold around it. Hopefully by next weekend i will be well on the way to having some 'glass upper engine covers.

Re: Hangar 9 P-40E Refurb

Postby Dale » Sun Nov 09, 2014 9:54 pm

Back into it after too long, and it quite obviously didn't make it to Forsyth this year. Lets hope for 2015.
Ref this pic:
The exhaust is fastened to the engine first, then put into the plane. With the exhaust sticking out, i can't get the engine in and out without making some more of the cowling removeable. More removeable bits will also make maintenance easier too.
I spent some considerable time thinking about different options, but it always came back to "i need to make more of the front end in a removeable fibreglass cowl". This i was nervous about, and furthmore didn't want to spend a small fortune on setting up a fibreglass production facility. I seriously considered grabbing the Top Flite ARF 1-piece cowl and making that work, but decided not to.
rather than the full front end, I decided to make the large side panels removeable, loosly similar to how the 1:1 scale does.
The very top section, including the carb inlet scoop, will remain attached and wooden structure.
I stumbled over a simple idea that gave me some confidence to move forward: Plaster of Paris mold!
So i brown packing taped my previously built up front end, as it will now become a plug. I then marked out where i wanted the panel with some pinstripe tape, and then waxed and waxed:

Roughed up a simple cardboard boxing, and then laid in a couple of layers of glass to get a good surface. Apparently plaster molds can be a bit rough, and it also takes a couple of weeks to dry properly. I figured having a glass surface on the mold will alleviate both of these issues.

Left it 6 hours, then dumped in a bunch of plaster:

And once it cured, popped it off and have a mold. The indendation caused by the tape gave me a clear line on where the edges of the finished product will be.

Pretty easy really.

Re: Hangar 9 P-40E Refurb

Postby Dale » Sun Mar 08, 2015 6:13 pm

I'd say sorry it's been far too long since an update, but i don't think anyone is reading this....
Progress has been made since the last post:
The cowl is complete, I made the two cowl cheeks using my plaster molds, and the joined these to the exisiting cowl.
Reworked some of the fuse front end sheeting, mounted some nuts in the fuse to take cowl fastening screws, and cut slots for the exhausts, and the result is something like this:

The new fxed tail feathers have been grafted on, secured, and blended, and with the new elevator and rudder dummied in place, it's starting to look the part at the back too:

All the pushrods are made and ready to fit, half the radio gear is already in, and i've even been working on a bit of cockpit detailing.

The entire airframe has been given it's final fill and sand, and is now ready for paint.
I have been putting panel lines on, again my cheating automotive pinstrip tape:


Paint starts very soon, and then really start putting it back together!

Re: Hangar 9 P-40E Refurb

Postby Dale » Sun Jul 05, 2015 6:57 pm

Well overdue for a proper update - because it's finished! (well almost).
So the next major item must have been paint. I decided to copy this scheme (more or less), as NZ3009 was when she was first restored, as part of the Breitling Fighters team.
Paint Scheme.jpg

I went a slightly different route this time, i had automotive base coat (which is pretty much lacquer anyway i understand) mixed up in the 4 required colours.
I did the white first, then the underside light brown, then the topside brown, the the green. So much masking! Clearcoated with the matching automotive 2K clear to fuel proof.


Markings were vinyl cut lettering and printed roundels again.
Then start "reassembling the ARF", which of course it kinda wasn't anymore, with the new control surfaces needing new pushrods, air retracts to connect make work etc etc.
Spinner i had powder coated.
I put a small amount of effort into the cockpit, (not normally a fan of cockpits), but we have part of an instrument panel, (which is printed from a photo), some made up detail to represent a gun sight, a pilot figure, the top part of the seat, and the headrest.

I had to cut the canopy into 3 pieces to fit, being the front/mid section and the two rear window sections, but looks the better for it. Is glued and screwed, will be removable should it be required. (no it doesn't slide!)
I gave away the opening cowl flaps a long time ago, but did have another great idea though: The carb inlet scoop is removable, and the service items are underneath - fuel fill and vent, air filler and gauge, and a charge plug. I have run two clunks into the tank to make fuelling, and perhaps moreso defueling easier. The engine is pumped, so has no requirement for a muffler-tank connection.

Batt is a 1700mAh 2S LiFePO4, with internal switch. Have a "Switchglo" onboard glow driver fitted. Needle valve is the only through-cowl engine protuberance. (other than those 12 pipes that is!)

All together, empty of fuel, weighs in at 5153g. A bit portly perhaps... being at least 1kg heavier than the out of the box ARF, but then again that doesn't have substantial pneumatic retracts nor scale exhausts.
Re CG, much reading online suggests the manual CG location is far too conservative, so i have followed several recommendations and gone at 3.5", not the 3" in the book. Note that this is currently unflown! In perhaps a first for myself, i needed weight (all 15g of it) down aft to get this, so pretty happy all in all with that.
Next stage, hopefully next weekend, i'll take it for some ground handling/engine runs, then give it a good going over before the final test. (And get some decent outdoor daylight photos!)

So what does it look like?



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